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County helping lead surging cheese sector
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Times photo: Tere Dunlap Employee Marilyn Ludlum, Monroe, cuts and packages bulk cheeses, while store owner Tony Zgraggen restocks the cases Wednesday at Alp and Dell Cheese Store in Monroe. The Alp and Dell is just one of the many local retail stores that carry specialty cheeses made in Green County. Zgraggen, a long-time resident of New Glarus, bought the store in April.
MONROE - Cheese factories across the state may have learned from Green County cheesemakers that specialty cheeses are popular.

According to a report issued Tuesday from the Wisconsin Department of Agriculture Trade and Consumer Protection (DATCP), specialty cheese production increased from 2007 to 2008.

"Specialty cheese production in Wisconsin rose by seven percent from 2007 to 2008 now totaling 429 million pounds, accounting for 17 percent of the state's total cheese production," the report said.

"It looks like the rest of the state is catching up to Green County," Green County ag agent Mark Mayer said.

There are 12 cheese factories in the county that produce specialty cheeses, Mayer added.

Specialty cheeses are types which are made on a smaller scale and require more labor. They are cheeses that aren't mass produced, such as cheddar or mozzarella.

Mayer said Green County is known for its specialty cheeses and for craftsmen who make it. The master cheesemakers in Green County account for 25 percent of all master cheesemakers in the country, he said.

According to DATCP, Wisconsin produces over 600 varieties of specialty cheese, while the number of plants producing specialty cheese increased to 99 of Wisconsin's 138 cheese plants. Feta continued to be the state's most popular cheese, with a 3 percent increase in production. Other popular varieties showing increased production include Asiago, Blue, Hispanic types, Parmesan Wheel, and specialty Provolone.

"Our world-renowned cheesemakers have grown our total market share of specialty cheese from 12 percent in 2002 to almost 20 percent today," state ag secretary Rod Nilsestuen. "This is remarkable progress and innovation in Wisconsin's growing cheese industry."

For years Green County has been at the forefront of specialty cheeses, such as Swiss, Limburger and Munster.

Swiss cheese and Limburger cheese have been a staple for cheese factories since people first started to make cheese, Ron Buholzer said.

Buholzer is president of the Foreign Type Cheesemakers Association in Green County and is also an owner of Klondike Cheese Factory.

The different kinds of specialty cheeses produced in Green County has grown.

"We have quite a group of master cheesemakers and a variety of cheese," Buholzer said.

Additional highlights from the state report indicate that Wisconsin's 2008 milk production increased by 2.5 percent, reaching 24.7 billion pounds. This production positions Wisconsin to break the all-time milk production record in 2009, which was set in 1988 at 25 billion pounds.