MONTICELLO — Tucked astride the main drag in Monticello, the historic Monticello House restaurant has been reborn and re-imagined as the Pink Heifer, a saloon, barbecue smokehouse, banquet hall and family restaurant in one.

When its huge new smoker is fired up — capable of handling up to 700 pounds of beef, chicken and pork in one go — the smell of real St. Louis-style pit barbecue permeates the downtown. And one couple hopes that the smoke signifies a resurgence for all of the bars, restaurants and shops located in this suddenly thriving little downtown.

Joe and Lauren Fox held a ribbon cutting and a grand reopening for the Pink Heifer Wednesday, and they were presented with their “first dollar” by the Monticello Chamber of Commerce.

“We’ve gotten to know the people of this community and we love it,” said Joe Fox, who adds that some of his barbecue is smoked for up to 14 hours and includes only prime cuts of brisket.

Bill and Mary Gibbons bought the hotel building known as the Monticello House from William & Belle Elliot in November of 1954. In 1965, Don and Judy Hoesly bought the old place and that’s how it largely remained — as the Monticello House restaurant off and on for many years. Eventually it closed altogether and remained so until the Fox’s came along, saw it’s potential and purchased the aging building.

The Fox’s, originally from Chicago, had come back to the Midwest and Green County from California just before the pandemic hit in 2020. Their background was in real estate and so they bought a 27-acre farm and pondered semi-retirement on their farm, working with horses and horse rescues, spending time with kids and grandkids, among other things. But that all changed one Friday night when, in the midst of a new and scary COVID-19 pandemic, they went downtown for a date night.

“We tried the Monticello House first because it looked neat and it was just really sad,” said Lauren Fox. “But the building was amazing.”

Eventually they would purchase the building, completely gut it and install the aforementioned smoker, which had to be brought in through a huge “window” cut into the side of the building on Main Street. They recruited an old friend and pitmaster from Chicago to devise the menu and serve as the Heifer’s first chef. He often stays in one of the five apartments upstairs.

“We wanted to look like a high-end, 1800s saloon,” said Joe Fox, who relied on wife Lauren to lay out the space and decorate with things like a regal chandelier, deep burgundy walls, wood accents everywhere and old-timey, tin roof panels.

It’s vast and full of curiosities that will likely make the spot a destination for foodies and families alike: Cow hide covers each unique stool in the bar and lounge; a baby grand player piano and stage are ready for live music, and kids can enjoy a trip to “Heifertown” in the restaurant portion, which includes two party rooms behind bars in the “jail.” The huge wooden bar itself looks old but is of fairly recent construction for use in the television show “Fargo;” and it would also appear in the “Chicago Med” television show, according to Fox.

Beyond that is a banquet hall with its own stage and bar, which will be available for weddings and other large gatherings in the near future. There’s even more space out back for bigger events and festivals.

“There’s something for everyone here,” said Joe Fox.

And while the space itself — replete with front porch and eventual beer garden — is a huge draw, the food is definitely going to pull in barbecue destination diners from near and far.

“We wanted it to be good and we wanted it to be authentic,” said Fox.

The Pink Heifer is open on Thursday’s each week from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. and from noon to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Sunday it’s open from noon to 5 p.m. The restaurant is closed Monday through Wednesday.