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Nearly 50 years of cheesemaking
Known as the ‘limburger guy,’ Olson plans to continue homage to stinky cheese
Myron Olson
Master Cheesemaker Myron Olson has retired as manager of the Chalet Cheese Co-op since 1992. He worked at the co-op for 49 years. - photo by Marissa Weiher

MONROE — When Myron Olson started working at Chalet Cheese Co-op as a high school student, he didn’t eat cheese. 

He simply didn’t like the taste of it.

“I slopped hogs with whey (on the dairy farm) and I didn’t care for the wheel Swiss my Dad would bring home,” he said.

After watching people munch on warm, salty curds, he gave it another shot. After 49 years working in the cheese business, his palate has changed.

“After a while I developed a taste for cheese,” Olson said. “Now there’s probably not any cheese that I have not tried or cared for.” 

The Chalet Cheese Co-Op, tucked away in the rolling hills of Green County on County N since the 1800s, is the oldest cheese co-op in Wisconsin. It has been the second home of Myron Olson for decades after he began working at Chalet in high school. He later stepped in as one of only three people to take the title of manager since the 1930s. 

About four years ago, he mentioned out loud that in coming years he hoped to retire. At this year’s annual October meeting, he said he made it clear: this year would be his last.

“I was going to (work) until the end of the year but we found such great employees,” he said. “We were able to get really good people in place.”

Olson’s last day of work was Sept. 1. He said the timing felt right. Fall is his favorite season, and he’s now able to take some time to watch the leaves change. Instead of waking to leave for the early morning hours of the factory, Olson now drinks coffee in his back yard, taking in the fresh air and quiet to start his day. He’s surrounded by his wife’s plants and feels secluded — a modest step into relaxing after decades of dedication.

His wife, Geri, longtime office manager for the Chalet, retired just before him in August. 

“It’s been a good run for us,” Olson said. “Even though the farm economy was tough we ran a strong factory and paid a good milk price through the years.”

More than one person was chosen to fill the shoes of Olson. A financial manager has been hired; and Jamie Fahrney, who has worked alongside Olson for years, was able to step in as well. Olson said Fahrney is the perfect man for the job and has been his “right hand man” for years.

“He’s been my go-to guy,” Olson said. “I kid him that I taught him everything he knows.”

The Argyle High School graduate began working in the factory as a senior in high school after his father sold the cows on their dairy farm. Olson was looking for ways to make money to attend the University of Wisconsin-Platteville.

As a young man who was no stranger to work, he said he was unphased by the cheese that most describe as smelling like sweaty feet.

“I was used to the smell of dairy cows — so the smell just never bothered me,” Olson said, smiling. “It was before gloves. I didn’t make too many friends that year.”

When Olson began at the factory he would milk cows before school and then take a shift at Chalet, wrapping limburger and brick. He earned his cheesemaker and limburger licenses in 1972. 

“At that time, if you had your limburger license, you were considered a master,” he said. “But they discontinued that because soon we were the only ones making limburger.”

The Chalet Co-op is the only cheese factory in the U.S. still making limburger cheese.

Once Olson started college in Platteville, he would return to Chalet after his classes from 2 p.m. to 9 p.m. Later, he began attending school three days a week and working at Chalet the other four. He graduated in 1974 with a degree in agriculture economics.

With graduation also came time for him to make a decision whether to pursue a career in cheese. He completed basic training for the National Guard and entered a six-year program. 

“I wanted to see where cheesemaking took me,” he said. 

Olson left for a factory that worked on an international scale. The job brought opportunity and lessons over two years. He said he learned while having full control of buying and selling products.

“It was almost like a two-year education,” he said. “With my cheese experience, I had good input.”

But even while there, he stayed part time at the Chalet — seemingly unable to let go. In 1980, when the Chalet had an opening for a cheesemaker, Olson returned full time.

“I just liked the setup (at Chalet),” he said. “The big company was too big – it was national – I felt more confident here with small surroundings.”

Albert Deppeler, the previous manager, had been at the Chalet since 1947 and retired in 1991. By January 1992, Olson stepped into the role. 

Olson stayed involved with cheesemaking, but was also involved in more behind-the-scenes duties. 

“I’ve been the sales force, overseeing quality control — and I’ve seen some big changes in 26 years,” he said, noting that paperwork, government involvement and food safety have changed dramatically.

Today, Chalet focuses heavily on their Baby Swiss products — and limburger, of course. It’s been an easy conversation piece through the years — he said almost everyone wants to talk to him about it, but it’s a dialog he enjoys. The “limburger guy” features “Lmbrgr” on his license plate; Geri’s has “BBSwiss.”

“It’s surprising how many people know about me,” he said. 

The couple can now talk cheese more often as they are able to travel more, something they both enjoy. Working together for so long has been easy, he said, and they’re both looking forward to spending more time with family. 

Olson said he’s happy he’s able to take some time for his four grandchildren. 

“I really want to do something different — but I also want to be available,” Olson said. “There were times that I had to miss — my son was in football — because of my dedication to the factory. I’m not gonna miss it this go round. My hope is to watch them, and to do things with them.”

And for a man who originally didn’t like the taste of cheese, he even developed a taste for the “stinky” limburger. He’s often asked how best to eat it and what beer pairs well with its mild flavor. 

“On rye, with onions and mustard — and any beer you like,” he said. “Or on toast for breakfast with jelly — that’s a tradition — you’re either gonna love it or hate it.”

He’ll keep talking cheese — but will now leave the work to others. 

 “I’m leaving it in real good hands,” he said.