The Bernese Oberland is one of the most beautiful areas of Switzerland, and that says a lot. But how can one surpass blue waters, green valleys, Alpine pastures, and a view of three of the world's famous mountain peaks, the Jungfrau, the Moench, and the rugged Eiger?
The Jungfrau, translated as young maiden, or virgin, lies to the west, and the Eiger, translated as "ogre," to the east. Between them is the Moench, or Monk, separating the rugged and doubtlessly lecherous Eiger from the Jungfrau, thus ensuring her continued innocence.
And the valleys of breath-taking beauty? Even seasoned Alpinists just shrug it off - of course the Lauterbrunnen Valley is the most beautiful valley in Europe. An immense U-shaped valley with sheer bluffs on either side, doused by 72 waterfalls, spectacular views of snow-capped peaks - it's not even debatable.
Once again, our tour group is the beneficiary of good fortune; brilliant sunshine and moderate temperatures affording a clear view of the valley and the snow-capped peaks to the south. We board our bus and our driver, Urs, takes us up the Lauterbrunnen valley, green pastures on the valley floor and sheer bluffs on either side.
We had not traveled far when, lo and behold, a herdsman is leading some cows, decorated with flowers, down from higher Alpine pastures. Doesn't this just happen in story and song? And in festivals commemorating this time-honored tradition? And is this not staged just for us? No, no, and no.
Or maybe the whole country is staged for the benefit of tourists. After all, the Swiss are a pragmatic people and have mastered the art.
We stop at the village of Lauterbrunnen, leave the bus, and board the train toward Wengen farther up the valley. Wengen, a village of 1,300 year-round residents that swells to 5,000 in summer and 10,000 in winter, is another car-free village. But this is autumn; fewer tourists, perfect weather, the ideal time to enjoy the majesty of the area.
Wengen initially was basically an Alpine farming village, first visited by tourists in the early 19th Century. With the onset of the Bernese Oberland as a tourist destination in the early 20th century, the British started ski clubs in the area.
The first ski races were held in the early 1920s, with the British downhill ski championship in 1921. These were the first downhill races as opposed to the Nordic races held in other Swiss resorts at that time.
In Wengen, skiers requested use of the train system for access to the slopes. These were the world's earliest ski lifts. This area also boasts the first slalom races. These events are considered the birth of ski-racing and Alpine skiing.
But ours was not ski weather, just pleasant sunshine and crisp Alpine air. We pass Wengen and our train stops near the top of Kleine Scheidegg, translated as "small watershed divide." Kleine Scheidegg is one of the most celebrated mountain passes in the Alps, connecting the Lauterbrunnen Valley with Grindelwald on the other side of the pass.
Some of us go hiking along the trails, enjoying views of the meadows and the snow-capped peaks to the south. As we wait for the train and our next stop, we enjoy brats and beer in the gentle sunshine. Some of us buy some items in the shop sporting the name of "Wyss."
Wyss??? Where have we seen that name before?
We board the train for the ride over Kleine Scheidegg to Grindelwald in the valley across the pass. As we cross the pass we are treated to even more spectacular views of the north face of the Eiger.
The Eiger is mentioned in records dating back to the 13th century. Its north face, the "Nordwand," towering 5,900 feet above Kleine Scheidegg, is considered one of the six great north faces of the Alps.
Early attempts at climbing the north face failed tragically. For a time, Bernese authorities banned attempts to climb it. But the challenge animated young climbers. It was first successfully climbed in 1938. Since 1935, more than 164 climbers have died attempting the north face.
Climbers attempting the north face could easily be watched through telescopes from Kleine Scheidegg. The contrast between safety and comfort, and the agonies of young men dying a short, yet impassable, distance away, led to intensive coverage by international media.
The Eiger gained further notoriety with the 1975 movie, "The Eiger Sanction," starring Clint Eastwood.
As we descend Kleine Scheidegg toward Grindelwald, we see more cows grazing on the Alpine pastures. To ensure continued dairy farming, the Swiss government subsizes this enterprise. Without dairy farming and Alpine grazing, those grassy pastures would grow over with brush. The steep Alpine slopes would lack the beauty of patches of evergreens interspersed with manicured pastures with grazing cows. The Swiss - a pragmatic people indeed.
We reach Grindelwald bathed in brilliant afternoon sunshine, another picturesque Alpine village and tourist destination.
The oldest traces of settlement in the area are scattered Neolithic tools. Several Roman coins have been found in the area. During the Middle Ages, a castle was built high above the village. Like other Alpine villages, it was initially agricultural.
During the Reformation, Bern converted the village to Protestantism and it became a part of the territory of Interlaken.
With the publication of early photographs of the area, and the discovery and attainment of the Bernese Oberland as a tourist destination, Grindelwald quickly gained international recognition.
We depart our train and wander the main street of Grindelwald while awaiting our bus that Urs has driven on a circuitous route from Lauterbrunnen to meet us here at Grindelwald.
We board our bus for the scenic ride back to Interlaken. It has been another memorable day that would linger pleasantly in our memories.
We are nearing the end of our tour - near the end, but not quite.
- John Waelti's column appears in the Times every Friday. He can be reached at jjwaelti1@tds.net.
The Jungfrau, translated as young maiden, or virgin, lies to the west, and the Eiger, translated as "ogre," to the east. Between them is the Moench, or Monk, separating the rugged and doubtlessly lecherous Eiger from the Jungfrau, thus ensuring her continued innocence.
And the valleys of breath-taking beauty? Even seasoned Alpinists just shrug it off - of course the Lauterbrunnen Valley is the most beautiful valley in Europe. An immense U-shaped valley with sheer bluffs on either side, doused by 72 waterfalls, spectacular views of snow-capped peaks - it's not even debatable.
Once again, our tour group is the beneficiary of good fortune; brilliant sunshine and moderate temperatures affording a clear view of the valley and the snow-capped peaks to the south. We board our bus and our driver, Urs, takes us up the Lauterbrunnen valley, green pastures on the valley floor and sheer bluffs on either side.
We had not traveled far when, lo and behold, a herdsman is leading some cows, decorated with flowers, down from higher Alpine pastures. Doesn't this just happen in story and song? And in festivals commemorating this time-honored tradition? And is this not staged just for us? No, no, and no.
Or maybe the whole country is staged for the benefit of tourists. After all, the Swiss are a pragmatic people and have mastered the art.
We stop at the village of Lauterbrunnen, leave the bus, and board the train toward Wengen farther up the valley. Wengen, a village of 1,300 year-round residents that swells to 5,000 in summer and 10,000 in winter, is another car-free village. But this is autumn; fewer tourists, perfect weather, the ideal time to enjoy the majesty of the area.
Wengen initially was basically an Alpine farming village, first visited by tourists in the early 19th Century. With the onset of the Bernese Oberland as a tourist destination in the early 20th century, the British started ski clubs in the area.
The first ski races were held in the early 1920s, with the British downhill ski championship in 1921. These were the first downhill races as opposed to the Nordic races held in other Swiss resorts at that time.
In Wengen, skiers requested use of the train system for access to the slopes. These were the world's earliest ski lifts. This area also boasts the first slalom races. These events are considered the birth of ski-racing and Alpine skiing.
But ours was not ski weather, just pleasant sunshine and crisp Alpine air. We pass Wengen and our train stops near the top of Kleine Scheidegg, translated as "small watershed divide." Kleine Scheidegg is one of the most celebrated mountain passes in the Alps, connecting the Lauterbrunnen Valley with Grindelwald on the other side of the pass.
Some of us go hiking along the trails, enjoying views of the meadows and the snow-capped peaks to the south. As we wait for the train and our next stop, we enjoy brats and beer in the gentle sunshine. Some of us buy some items in the shop sporting the name of "Wyss."
Wyss??? Where have we seen that name before?
We board the train for the ride over Kleine Scheidegg to Grindelwald in the valley across the pass. As we cross the pass we are treated to even more spectacular views of the north face of the Eiger.
The Eiger is mentioned in records dating back to the 13th century. Its north face, the "Nordwand," towering 5,900 feet above Kleine Scheidegg, is considered one of the six great north faces of the Alps.
Early attempts at climbing the north face failed tragically. For a time, Bernese authorities banned attempts to climb it. But the challenge animated young climbers. It was first successfully climbed in 1938. Since 1935, more than 164 climbers have died attempting the north face.
Climbers attempting the north face could easily be watched through telescopes from Kleine Scheidegg. The contrast between safety and comfort, and the agonies of young men dying a short, yet impassable, distance away, led to intensive coverage by international media.
The Eiger gained further notoriety with the 1975 movie, "The Eiger Sanction," starring Clint Eastwood.
As we descend Kleine Scheidegg toward Grindelwald, we see more cows grazing on the Alpine pastures. To ensure continued dairy farming, the Swiss government subsizes this enterprise. Without dairy farming and Alpine grazing, those grassy pastures would grow over with brush. The steep Alpine slopes would lack the beauty of patches of evergreens interspersed with manicured pastures with grazing cows. The Swiss - a pragmatic people indeed.
We reach Grindelwald bathed in brilliant afternoon sunshine, another picturesque Alpine village and tourist destination.
The oldest traces of settlement in the area are scattered Neolithic tools. Several Roman coins have been found in the area. During the Middle Ages, a castle was built high above the village. Like other Alpine villages, it was initially agricultural.
During the Reformation, Bern converted the village to Protestantism and it became a part of the territory of Interlaken.
With the publication of early photographs of the area, and the discovery and attainment of the Bernese Oberland as a tourist destination, Grindelwald quickly gained international recognition.
We depart our train and wander the main street of Grindelwald while awaiting our bus that Urs has driven on a circuitous route from Lauterbrunnen to meet us here at Grindelwald.
We board our bus for the scenic ride back to Interlaken. It has been another memorable day that would linger pleasantly in our memories.
We are nearing the end of our tour - near the end, but not quite.
- John Waelti's column appears in the Times every Friday. He can be reached at jjwaelti1@tds.net.
