"Clearly, the Falls is that way." We were blocks away, yet an unmistakable mist dominated the view in one direction.
Native Americans had beheld the power of Niagara Falls for centuries, but it wasn't until 1678 that a French priest wrote an account of his exploration of North America. Published in France, his description of Niagara Falls encouraged further exploration of the area, kicking off something of a boom.
The introduction of the railroad in the 1800s made Niagara Falls a worldwide destination. According to the state park's website, the younger brother of Napoleon Bonaparte honeymooned with his bride at the falls, and is sometimes credited with starting Niagara Falls' honeymoon tradition.
Then, during the Industrial Revolution, entrepreneurs seized upon the river as a source of power for mills and factories. By the time of the American Civil War, the natural beauty of Niagara was in danger of drying up. Industrialization had seriously hindered the flow of water over the falls.
Recognizing the value of Niagara, a group of environmentalists pressured the New York state government to intervene, with the purpose of preserving Niagara Falls as not only an object of natural beauty, but also as an irreplaceable natural resource (four of the five Great Lakes empty into Niagara Falls, representing nearly one-fifth of the world's supply of fresh water). The environmentalist group prevailed, and in 1885 Niagara Falls was officially created as a state park - America's first.
In an interesting twist of coincidence, the leader of the environmentalist movement was a man by the name of Frederick Law Olmsted. He believed that parks should be places that showcase the environment's natural beauty, where the scenery is highlighted for what it is, rather than being manipulated to the designs of the planner. Olmsted also designed Central Park in New York City, and is credited as being America's first landscape architect.
Olmsted's vision of Niagara Falls State Park included a series of winding footpaths, with a nod toward accessibility. His idea was that anyone and everyone should enjoy Niagara Falls for what it was - a place of rugged, pristine natural beauty. As my Australian friends and I entered the park, it was clear that Olmsted was a true visionary. Beautifully maintained footpaths led us directly to the river, where a large viewing promenade followed the bank. We had followed the cloud of mist to get this far, but now we could feel the roar of the Falls.
Clearly, the tourist season was in full swing. On both the American and Canadian side of Niagara Falls, boat tours were working nonstop. On both sides, viewing platforms had been erected to within a few feet of the Falls. On both sides, a steady stream of poncho-clad visitors lined the footpaths, creating what looked like an unbroken line of brightly colored ants. On both sides, an imposing skyline of casino-hotels towered high above the curling cloud of mist. One after another these eyesores were lined up, like architectural gawkers craning their neck to get the best view.
Sadly, I couldn't help but realize that the Niagara Falls as envisioned by Olmsted had become a commercial spectacle after all.
As planned we boarded the Maid of the Mist for an up-close encounter with the Falls. I didn't realize until that moment the significance of the ponchos - every visitor to the boat tour was handed a "souvenir" raincoat. Mine ripped when I put it on, and upon disembarking everyone threw theirs in the trash. Literally, an assembly line of park employees had been set up, simply for the purpose of handing out and collecting discarded ponchos.
The same thing at the Cave of the Winds, except this time all visitors were required to take off their shoes and wear "souvenir" flip-flops (I suppose so nobody slips, but my Keen water shoes were light-years ahead of the free flip-flops). Another assembly line of workers, this time for flip-flops as well as ponchos. The entire display seemed excessively wasteful; many of the visitors hesitatingly took their flip-flops home, but most ended up in the recycle bins lining the footpaths.
Despite the best efforts of wanton commercialization and the needlessly excessive consumption of disposable plastics, Niagara Falls still ranks as an awe-inspiring destination for anyone and everyone. I saw this at the Hurricane Deck, where visitors can trek along the base of the Falls, to a platform where the water literally cascades off the rocks to hammer anyone standing below.
Wearing a leaky poncho and embarrassing flip-flops, I walked to the railing and looked up at the Falls. Fresh water roared down, pounding my face and pushing my body. To my left, a group of college kids were experiencing the same thing. To my right, an elderly couple was holding up a toddler. She shrieked with delight, stamping her feet and splashing the deck.
Above the thunder of Niagara Falls, I heard a noise. We were laughing, all of us. We did not know one another, but in that brief moment we looked at each other, felt the crushing force of the water, and laughed out loud.
- Dan Wegmueller of Monroe writes a column for the Times each Tuesday. He can be reached at dwegs@tds.net.
Native Americans had beheld the power of Niagara Falls for centuries, but it wasn't until 1678 that a French priest wrote an account of his exploration of North America. Published in France, his description of Niagara Falls encouraged further exploration of the area, kicking off something of a boom.
The introduction of the railroad in the 1800s made Niagara Falls a worldwide destination. According to the state park's website, the younger brother of Napoleon Bonaparte honeymooned with his bride at the falls, and is sometimes credited with starting Niagara Falls' honeymoon tradition.
Then, during the Industrial Revolution, entrepreneurs seized upon the river as a source of power for mills and factories. By the time of the American Civil War, the natural beauty of Niagara was in danger of drying up. Industrialization had seriously hindered the flow of water over the falls.
Recognizing the value of Niagara, a group of environmentalists pressured the New York state government to intervene, with the purpose of preserving Niagara Falls as not only an object of natural beauty, but also as an irreplaceable natural resource (four of the five Great Lakes empty into Niagara Falls, representing nearly one-fifth of the world's supply of fresh water). The environmentalist group prevailed, and in 1885 Niagara Falls was officially created as a state park - America's first.
In an interesting twist of coincidence, the leader of the environmentalist movement was a man by the name of Frederick Law Olmsted. He believed that parks should be places that showcase the environment's natural beauty, where the scenery is highlighted for what it is, rather than being manipulated to the designs of the planner. Olmsted also designed Central Park in New York City, and is credited as being America's first landscape architect.
Olmsted's vision of Niagara Falls State Park included a series of winding footpaths, with a nod toward accessibility. His idea was that anyone and everyone should enjoy Niagara Falls for what it was - a place of rugged, pristine natural beauty. As my Australian friends and I entered the park, it was clear that Olmsted was a true visionary. Beautifully maintained footpaths led us directly to the river, where a large viewing promenade followed the bank. We had followed the cloud of mist to get this far, but now we could feel the roar of the Falls.
Clearly, the tourist season was in full swing. On both the American and Canadian side of Niagara Falls, boat tours were working nonstop. On both sides, viewing platforms had been erected to within a few feet of the Falls. On both sides, a steady stream of poncho-clad visitors lined the footpaths, creating what looked like an unbroken line of brightly colored ants. On both sides, an imposing skyline of casino-hotels towered high above the curling cloud of mist. One after another these eyesores were lined up, like architectural gawkers craning their neck to get the best view.
Sadly, I couldn't help but realize that the Niagara Falls as envisioned by Olmsted had become a commercial spectacle after all.
As planned we boarded the Maid of the Mist for an up-close encounter with the Falls. I didn't realize until that moment the significance of the ponchos - every visitor to the boat tour was handed a "souvenir" raincoat. Mine ripped when I put it on, and upon disembarking everyone threw theirs in the trash. Literally, an assembly line of park employees had been set up, simply for the purpose of handing out and collecting discarded ponchos.
The same thing at the Cave of the Winds, except this time all visitors were required to take off their shoes and wear "souvenir" flip-flops (I suppose so nobody slips, but my Keen water shoes were light-years ahead of the free flip-flops). Another assembly line of workers, this time for flip-flops as well as ponchos. The entire display seemed excessively wasteful; many of the visitors hesitatingly took their flip-flops home, but most ended up in the recycle bins lining the footpaths.
Despite the best efforts of wanton commercialization and the needlessly excessive consumption of disposable plastics, Niagara Falls still ranks as an awe-inspiring destination for anyone and everyone. I saw this at the Hurricane Deck, where visitors can trek along the base of the Falls, to a platform where the water literally cascades off the rocks to hammer anyone standing below.
Wearing a leaky poncho and embarrassing flip-flops, I walked to the railing and looked up at the Falls. Fresh water roared down, pounding my face and pushing my body. To my left, a group of college kids were experiencing the same thing. To my right, an elderly couple was holding up a toddler. She shrieked with delight, stamping her feet and splashing the deck.
Above the thunder of Niagara Falls, I heard a noise. We were laughing, all of us. We did not know one another, but in that brief moment we looked at each other, felt the crushing force of the water, and laughed out loud.
- Dan Wegmueller of Monroe writes a column for the Times each Tuesday. He can be reached at dwegs@tds.net.
