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Cheese equals champs
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MADISON - The world's largest international cheese contest, the 27th Biennial World Championship Cheese Contest, concluded Thursday with four area cheesemakers earning world titles.

Cheesemakers and buttermakers from around the world met in Madison this year, vying for gold, silver and bronze medals in 79 classes. The contest is hosted by the Wisconsin Cheese Makers Association.

Roger Larson, Maple Leaf Cheese Co-op, Monroe

Larson won the Cheddar, Aged One to Two Years category.

He has been in the cheesemaking business most of his life, but this is the first time he personally has taken a top award in such a high profile contest. Larson has worked at Maple Leaf since 1993.

"It's nice to be recognized for something like this," Larson said.

Larson's 30-pound wheel cheddar bounced to the top with a unique combination of culture blend, air-curing and handling.

"I used special cultures, slightly different than when I make it in block," he said.

He also used a breathable plastic coating to aid in the air-curing process.

"Not too many have used it on cheddar," he said.

But now the cheesemaker is hoping to be able to fill the anticipated demands for his cheddar.

"I'm making 20 wheels every two weeks, about 1,000 pounds a month," he said. "And then it takes at least a year before we can sell it," he said.

Steve Stettler,

Decatur Dairy, Inc., Brodhead

Stettler won the Brick, Muenster category.

"It was a good thing," Master cheesemaker Stettler said about winning first place for his muenster.

Decatur Dairy took first and fourth place in the class, which Stettler said "shows our quality is consistent."

"Competition in this area is so stringent, especially in the world contest. Getting first place is fantastic for the co-op," he said.

Competition among cheesemakers in the county and state creates "good camaraderie," Stettler said.

Klondike Cheese Factory of Monroe took second place in the same class.

Stettler's Decatur Dairy is part of the Decatur Swiss Cheese Co-op, which is farmer-owned.

Stettler said he didn't do anything special to make his award-winning muenster.

"Our farmers supply us with quality milk," Stettler said. "And then you try as hard as you can. This year everything was aligned."

Although, "I do have to admit, I baby-sat it," he said. "You just get a feeling a certain vat is better than others."

Choosing a cheese to submit for competition is a "tough deal" he said.

"There are two judges judging and it depends on their taste-buds, some like more salt and some like less. So I try to get something in between."

Judges at the world contest come from as far away as South Africa and Japan, and as close as South Dakota.

This is the second time in about 10 years that Decatur's muenster has won first place. Last year, its havarti won first, second and third place in the U.S. competition.

Stettler laughed about whether he'd have enough to meet the demand for his muenster.

"I guess not having enough is a good thing," he said.

Team Roth Kase USA,

Roth Kase USA Ltd., Monroe

The winner in the Smear Ripened Hard Cheeses category was Roth Private Reserve, which Roth Kase USA has been making for two years. The cheese is made with milk that is heat-treated, not pasteurized, and is "smear ripened." Bacterial culture is smeared on the outside of the final cheese product while it ages.

"We've been very successful with this cheese," Jim Natzke, general manager of Roth Kase USA, said. Roth Private Reserve took second place overall in the American Cheese Society contest last August.

It takes more people than just the cheesemaker to make the smear-ripened cheeses, Natzke said, which is why he decided to take advantage of the new entry option, "Team Name" entries.

"We're very proud of our team, and we couldn't be happier," Natzke said. "Particularly with the quality of cheesemakers from around the world, it gets tougher every year; and it's tough to make the top 10 ... or three."

The Private Reserve has an rich, full-body, and earthy flavor, somewhat related to Swiss or Gruyere, according to Natzke.



Erin Whitman from Family Fresh Pack LLC in Belleville also won an award for his flavored spreadable cheeses.